Back in the 1960s, when television and special effects were still in the early stages of development, other departments needed to get creative to fill in the gaps. Costuming was important for setting the tone, mood, and visual style of any given TV episode. This was especially true for science fiction shows, which were also a new phenomenon. One of the most famous of these was Star Trek, The Original Series.
Often derided for cheap sets and exaggerated clothing, especially compared to the slick, CGI television shows of now, the vintage show had some great costume designs, even for its time. You've heard the jokes about the poor ones, now here are a few of the best episodes of Star Trek TOS for costuming.
Season 1, Episode 7, "Mudd's Women."
Harvey Mudd is a recurring character in the Star Trek franchise, and this is his first appearance. Mudd is always into something unsavory, being something like a pirate as his earring and puffed sleeves suggest, and in this episode, he's trafficking in women. Specifically, mail-order brides.
We won't give away the plot twist, but let's just say that the costuming people had to do some interesting tricks with hair, makeup, and clothing to make the women look "different" at certain times while not changing them very much at all. These ladies even turn Spock's stiff neck. The moral of the story is surprisingly profound, focusing on style versus substance, and the three "wives" actually have some interesting things to say despite functioning mostly as props.
Season 1, Episode 14, "The Conscience of the King."
Shakespeare and space travel, together at last. You don't have to be a fan of the Bard to appreciate the futuristic twist on a timeless form of entertainment. Of course, 200 years from now, human beings will still be performing Shakespeare. It's not just the character of Lenore Karidian that's dressed impeccably, stealing every scene she's in with a unique mixture of hairstyles, accessories, and outfits.
The story is a somber one, and with the exception of the usual Starfleet uniforms, almost everyone is wearing dark shades like purple and navy blue. Even the lighting is kept moot and the play that opens the episode is one of the darkest, MacBeth.
Season 1, Episode 23, "Space Seed."
This episode is already one of the most famous, as it spawned one of the greatest movie sequels of all time and a modern remake, but it's not just about the story, it's the costume design. Khan Noonien Singh has to look sinister yet stately, handsome but threatening. He's not just a superior genetic being, he's a prince from a bygone time.
Mix some great costuming with the acting chops of Ricardo Montalbán and your mission is accomplished. It's not just clothes but hair that takes on a role in this episode to illustrate the powers of attraction and manipulation as well as wealth, fame and power.
Season 2, Episode 1, "Amok Time."
There wasn't a lot of information about Vulcans and their culture in season 1, other than some personal information about Spock, so we were at the edge of our seats when this episode started season two. There's no such thing as a bad Spock episode, and this one is not only about him but his home planet, his culture, even his wife.
The fashion of Vulcan had to be distinguished and realistic but also with a touch of the barbaric, seeing as the mating customs of Vulcan are distinctly primitive. T'Pring and Tu Pau, the Vulcan women, take on important roles in this episode as emissaries of ancient Vulcan customs, and it shows in their wardrobes.
Season 2, Episode 4, "Mirror, Mirror."
This would be our first visit to the Mirror Universe, but it wouldn't be the last. We remain so fascinated by this sinister alternative reality not only because of the story but because of the clever costume designs that help set the tone. Evil Spock's goatee gets so much meme time that we forget about everything else from this episode, like Evil Sulu's scar and Uhura brandishing a knife.
The uniforms of the Mirror Universe and the Imperial version of Starfleet show a lot more skin and are heavy with bling, and immediately the audience knows this universe is about wealth, power and appearances, not so much diplomacy and goodwill.
Season 2, Episode 10, "Journey to Babel."
Years before George Lucas created the iconic Mos Eisley cantina, the makers of Star Trek created a similar environment on an even bigger scale. The sheer number of different costumes viewers can see in this episode is impressive, including the formal wear of Starfleet officers, and we're not even talking about the incredible amount of makeup or voice acting work.
As complex as the set is, it's just a backdrop to a story about the perils of diplomacy and Spock's family history. Almost every scene in this episode is a feast for the eyes, even when we're just watching Sarek and Amanda, who also wear some great clothes.
Season 2, Episode 19, "A Private Little War."
Most Star Trek TOS episodes feature costumes that are elaborate, complicated or just plain silly. In this episode, we're given a contrast that puts certain characters in the foreground. The buckskin in this episode is nice to start with. It's comfortable, practical and it still looks good even though it's rather plain.
In light of that, where did this crazy black-vinyl hippy vs. Goth outfit come from? And what animal has neon orange fur? The character Nona comes from a different tribe known as the Kahnut-tu, and they have some amazing tailors. Some of the more creative and exotic outfits on the show fail, but not this one.
Season 3, Episode 2, "The Enterprise Incident."
She's simply known as the Romulan Commander. Even the credits don't give her a name, but you'll remember her wardrobe. Romulan uniforms and other accessories are intended to harken back to the time of Imperial Rome, and it works, but the Romulan Commander looks like she just stepped off a runway in Milan.
Even Spock can't take his eyes off her, and when it comes time for them to part you can't help but wonder how regretful Spock really is. As the first female Commander of anything to appear on Star Trek, we have to have her credit for her duty to fashion along with the Romulan Empire.
Season 3, Episode 5, "Is There in Truth No Beauty?"
Clothes aren't always used to set the tone or define a character. They can also be functional. This episode is so compelling that you might not even notice the exquisite job the costuming department did, particularly with the character of Miranda Jones. This character could have a storyline all her own, an interstellar ambassador with psychic abilities.
The outfits she wears are tied to the storyline and have a practical purpose beyond just making her look like a stylish human who was raised on Vulcan. We won't give too much away, but it's sufficient to say that Dr. McCoy is the only one who immediately understands the secret of Miranda's favorite dress.
Season 3, Episode 10, "Plato's Stepchildren."
There are a few episodes where the characters find excuses to dress up in the romantic garb of the Classical era, and this is the best of them all. It's not just the clothes, but also the jewelry, hairstyles, furniture, and other trappings that complete this opulent environment.
It's deliberately dressed up to look rich and oblivious, as Parmen and his companions are intended to be portrayed as overgrown spoiled brats. This episode is a moral of what happens when people have it too good for too long and are comfortably removed from the ugly side of civilization, and their rich costumes echo that sentiment.