Outlander has, for the first four seasons, been expertly costumed by designer Terry Dresbach. She created several iconic looks for the series that everyone remembers. Claire's red dress, anyone?
For the first few seasons, Claire (Catriona Balfe) and Jamie (Sam Heughan) moved around to different parts of the world. They make their way through Scotland, France, at sea on a search, and finally settle in colonial-era North Carolina, where the fifth season sees them once again. However, season 5 is also bringing in a new costume designer: Trisha Biggar. Since the Frasers are now staying put for a while, let's take a look at 10 differences between costumes in seasons 4 and 5.
Brianna's Wedding Dress
Outlander kicked season 5 off with a bang as the first episode covered Brianna (Sophie Skelton) and Roger's (Richard Rankin) wedding day. After all the miscommunication of season 4, seeing these characters at ease and stable in their decisions is a nice change.
Brianna wears a cream wedding dress that was made from fabric from Aunt Jocasta (Maria Doyle Kennedy). Scottish thistles are embroidered in, as are orange blossoms, which Biggar felt were quite 1970s. Brianna is the embodiment of two cultures, and her dress reflects that. The cream was chosen over the blue of the book in order to make it stand out as much as possible in the outdoor setting.
Reusing Past Outfits
To be as historically accurate as possible, many outfits and fabrics are reused. In the 18th century, fabric was expensive, and if something became too small, it was cut up and remade into something else. Families passed down treasured outfits and well-made fabric as much as they could before it wore out.
We see this with the blanket on Claire and Jamie's bed in season 4, which is later remade into scarves, since they weren't prepared for the cold. Jamie's black suit, a prized piece, is reworn in multiple seasons, and will continue to be for season 5. Though this continues from season 4, with a new designer at the helm, there are likely to be further differences along the way as we progress through the season.
Fun with Patterns
Season 1 of Outlander saw the characters in very natural colors: browns and greens. Season 4 brings us to the backcountry, so those natural colors reappear. Dresbach wanted to make sure viewers didn't immediately think we were back in Scotland, so she began to bring in patterns and florals. Biggar, for season 5, intends to continue that plan.
Biggar has said that she wanted to use natural colors as well. North Carolina allowed a different vibe to creep in, as more linen and homespun are being used instead of wool. Fabrics are lighter, as are colors.
Roger's 18th Century Style
When we start to get to know Roger more in season 4, he's combining both his own heritage and his 1970s present in his wardrobe. When he and Brianna go to the Gathering, he wears a sweater and a kilt in order to accomplish that exact combination of cultures. When he starts to integrate into the 18th century in season 5, it's a difficult transition.
In terms of costumes, however, it's doable. His wedding suit is a polished deep blue and is quite similar to Jamie's coat in style. His coats in season 5 are dark, natural colors, serving to blend in, which is exactly what Roger as a character is working on.
Claire's Outlook
In season 4, Claire and Jamie spend part of the season with Jamie's Aunt Jocasta at her North Carolina plantation. Claire isn't particularly at ease in Jocasta's home, partly due to the fact that she owns slaves. Her wardrobe reflects that.
Dresbach dressed Claire in more formal costumes for the episodes set at Jocasta's, and it's only when she's later at home on Fraser's Ridge that she can truly feel comfortable. Costumes were chosen that truly felt like Claire and that Balfe enjoyed being able to move around in. Claire ends up stealing a pair of Ian's breeches, for example. It's likely season 5 will see Claire relax completely with her new home and family around her.
The Revolution is Coming!
Season 4 sets us up in the colonial era, so tricorn hats already abound. However, the timeline is inching ever-closer to the American Revolutionary War, and Jamie's part to play in it is made increasingly clearer with every passing episode.
Jamie and Roger, as of recent episodes, have been asked to round up a militia, and Jamie, with his hair, pulled back, tricorn on his head, and distinguished gray coat, certainly looks the part. Murtagh (Duncan Lacroix), a leader with the Regulators and on the run, rightly hasn't had time to differentiate his wardrobe much this season. He is wearing the buttoned brown coat with neck kerchief, both seen last season.
Brianna's Evolving Wardrobe
When Brianna goes through the stones in season 4, she dresses in a way that almost passes muster, as she wears a flowered cotton dress and a hooded cape. Since she's never been to the 18th century, she doesn't quite know what belongs to the period. Her family fixes this by putting her in Claire's season 1 clothes.
On the one hand, they're period-appropriate, and they're also historically accurate by way of reusing clothing and fabric. In season 5, Brianna is beginning to come into her own, starting with her wardrobe, though especially her wedding dress.
Everyone's Getting Older
Natural colors abound, but older cuts and patterns are starting to show up as our characters age. Jamie's small gold glasses have been brought out again as of season 5, for example. Brianna and Roger are coming more into center stage as the new couple, so their costumes are younger-looking, as are those of Fergus (Cesar Domboy) and Marsali (Lauren Lyle). Murtagh, for example, was still dressed as very Scot-like in season 4, and it's only in season 5 that his wardrobe truly shifts to America, especially as he goes on the run from the British government.
Showing Off Multiple Time Periods
Brianna and Claire are showcasing both the time periods they come from. Season 4 sees Brianna adopt several fashion statements of the 1970s, including her Guatemalan bag, that she brings back to the 18th century. The silhouette of Claire's costumes is also very reminiscent of the 1940s.
Trisha Biggar is bringing that concept forward into season 5, but with her own special twist. Brianna's wedding dress cleverly incorporates both her heritage and her time period though embroidery of thistles and orange blossoms, for example. We look forward to seeing the glimpses of time travel in a show that has become exceedingly historical.
Mystery Wedding...!
Season 5 is continuing its high with a second wedding, though we currently don't know who's getting married. However, the promotion photos heavily imply they're well-off.
We're secretly hoping (along with plenty of others) that it's Murtagh and Jocasta who will be tying the knot, however unlikely that seems now, considering Murtagh is, again, as a leader of the Regulators, on the run from Governor Tryon...and Jamie. This wedding, whoever is involved aside, is likely to show off some new costumes suited to such a festive occasion. We can't wait!